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Women cross-dressers could be self-divided, brooding, Byronic figures but for women the inversion of cross-dressing is not always or even primarily erotic. But, noting the appeal of Sarah Bernhardt and Marlene Dietrich, clearly such seductive cross-dressers can function as sex symbols for men, reflecting masculine attitudes that range from an attempt to eroticize (and thereby posses) the independent woman to only slightly submerged homosexual fantasies. Female Modernists tended to be more extreme both in actually playing the male role and their reaction against such camouflaging as male pseudonyms
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As Ann Demeulemeester said of it, "Black is poetic
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