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Finally, there was just plain Stella: a gay sex worker cross-dressing in fabulous frocks, seen to pick men up in the theatre by, according to Barlett, exposing herself, making chirruping noises, and using the time-honoured line: hello darling, do you fancy a blow job? Everyone is a unique case Stella may have smiled in the face of notoriety, but her lover was not so resilient

Scott, a Jamaican-born designer who wore an ICE Out pin for interviews after her show, calls Diotima an anti-imperialist brand, which is always an uphill battle in an industry of privilege and excess

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